Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Smokey Eye with Sharon Gault

This past weekend, I had the good fortune to attend The Makeup Show in NYC.  There, I managed to catch one of the keynote speeches given by celeb makeup artist Sharon Gault, muse to famed photographer David LaChapelle who has worked with Madonna, Courtney Love, Mariah, and countless others!  

Sharon did a hot smokey eye on one of the models there, and I took step-by-step notes on what she did and the products she used.  I've since tried this look on myself and on a client at Sephora--who promptly purchased every single product I put on her face!  Check it out:

1.  Sanitize your hands with Jao hand sanitizer.

2.  Prep client's skin with rosewater toner to take oil away.  (At Sephora, I like to use Caudalie's cleansing water for this purpose--you can remove eye and face makeup with a cotton pad, and it leaves skin fresh, soft, and prepped for moisturizer)

3.  Use eye cream--Sharon's choice: Embryolisse (the make-up artist's must-have!)

4.  Apply Embryolisse face cream over the whole face with a clean foundation brush.  This product works as a 3-in-1 as a moisturizer, primer, and makeup remover!  (an artist at the Make Up Forever boutique on W. 12th St. told me that guys can also use this as a shave cream in a pinch.  I've heard that this is the only cream that some models will let you put on their faces)

5.  Line eyes with black Face Atelier pencil.  This pencil is a powder-pencil formula, similar to that of Laura Geller's and Becca's.  Rim whole eye with black liner.

6.  Contour crease of eye with same pencil, drawing moon-shaped line.

7.  Use Face Atelier's gel shadow transformer and mix it with some gold powder pigment from MUFE (try Yellow Gold 920); apply over center of lid with brush, tapping and blending.

8.  Blend and smudge with a clean brush.  Add a touch of dark pigment to smoke up the area! (Try MUFE Star Powder in Black Gold 950).  While you're smudging, the eye should begin to take shape with two "points" under the brow; the smoked shadow should come to a point at the outer corner of the eye, like a wing, as well as under the thickest part of the brow (not under the arch).  This should create a subtle, smokey "M" shape.  I don't know why this works, but I tried it on myself and it does!

9.  Go back and hilight with MUFE Flash Color in Gold 4.  Smudge like crazy, until you're really well blended like this:

10.  Clean up any pigment that's fallen down onto the cheekbones with an Alcone makeup wipe (or more of your Caudalie cleansing water).  

11.  Apply RCMA foundation with your foundation brush, blending the right shade right on the client's face by adding the colors as you need them.  This palette is the one she used!

12.  If you're doing stage makeup, roll a little bit of MUFE HD foundation onto the face with a sponge.  This will give extra coverage and make the skin look perfect on the monitor.  (This product won't be available at Sephora until August, but you can find it now at the MUFE boutique in NYC)

13.  Press-don't brush-MUFE HD powder into the face using a kabuki brush.  Then use a small, clean blush brush to apply more HD powder under the eyes and around the nose. 

14.  Paint lips with a nude peach gloss.  (Try Nars Orgasm or Sephora Collection #21)

15.  Dab MUFE Flash Color in Coral 2 high on cheekbones for blush.  

16.  "mess up" eyes a little bit by adding some purple flash color (try Violet 22) to lids with your finger tip.  

17.  Mix Flash Colors in Black 11 and Brown 23 and line under eye again to finish messy, smokey look.  Voila!!!  Instant sex appeal!

(notice: Sharon's model already had on purple false lashes before she did the eye makeup; obviously, if not, you'll need mascara too!  I like a long wearing formula on top of a fiber-based primer; this one does it all, and lasts all day.)

Other pro-artistry tips and tricks Sharon shared with us:

1.  If working on set, keep an eye on the monitor and how your subject's makeup is looking on screen.  Remember that you're working for the camera, not for the eye!

2.  Touch your clients lovingly and sweetly.  If you're working with a celeb client, you might want to consider holding a large powder puff (like Laura Mercier's) between your hand and their face--some celebs prefer that you touch their faces as little as possible.

3.  Always communicate with your client at the beginning of your consultation, and ask them what they want!

4.  Consider lighting a candle at your makeup station.  Anything that smells good will make your client more comfortable and relaxed with you!  (I've also heard that Cinema Secrets brush cleaner will make your brushes smell lovely, and Jao makes your hands smell like lavender.  Don't forget to pop an altoid, too!)

1 comment:

Mista said...

omg. I have always wanted to know how to do this smoky eye!